Duke’s of London Head Bartender Alessandro Palazzi models his Martini slippers before introducing L’Orbe Caviar infused vodka

Dispatch from BCB in its final year at STATION Berlin (onward to Messe Berlin 2020!)

All photos by Amanda Schuster

2019 was the largest, most attended Bar Convent Berlin in the event’s 12 year history. According to BCB’s exit report, bar and beverage industry representatives from a record 86 countries attended the event—15,162 visitors in all, and half of them were from outside of Germany. Inside STATION Berlin and the adjacent Külhaus were 446 exhibitors representing 48 countries and 12,000 different brands of spirits, sparkling wine, beer, and mixers.

If that sounds like a massive amount of people, places and things to take in over the span of three days, you’re not wrong.

Gin is still in, but rum was the centerpiece

Gin was the most represented category for another year running, with classic and new flavored styles vying for attention—164 gins in all. It seems anyone who’s ever declared an aversion to juniper had something to taste in attempts to change that perception. But with Mauritius as the Country of Honor in the new House of Rum Külhaus exhibit and programming curated by international rum ambassador Ian Burrell, rum was literally given center stage at BCB. “Exotic production countries, unique production processes and very special storage methods lend each rum an unmistakable note and outstanding character.”

Mauritius was represented by brands such as Chamarel, Mauricia, Distillerie de Labourdonnais, Bougainville, House of Lords and Gold of Mauritius. Other fun stuff in the House (which was entered via a Caribbean beachside jerk shack simulation), included a sugarcane tasting corner and tobacco rolling stations, as well as other world rum brands (Real McCoy, Dos Maderas, Oxenham craft rum, Neptune, Brugal, Island Rum and the surprisingly-quite-delicious Cinecane popcorn rum) in the house. Rum was also represented throughout the show, with brands such as Plantation, Gosling’s, Bitter Truth (Tiki Lovers), Dictador, Angostura, Foursquare, Spirited Union (Netherlands botanical rum!), La Hechicera (serving a really cool Gold Fashioned with blingy syrup), and Cuba’s real Havana Club (which introduced its two newest bartender collaborative expressions C and D) among many others. In addition, Privateer’s Maggie Campbell and rum writer Matt Pietrek were among quite a number of speakers leading seminars on the topic of rum.

So where was the whiskey?

It seemed there was definitely less of it, but still plenty to taste. Buzzing about the show was the announcement of 25% tariffs placed on certain European imports in the states because of an ongoing disputes between nations over aviation industry subsidies. As of October 18, the products affected include Scotch, but also French wine, northern Irish (but not Republic) whiskey, Italian liqueurs and cordials (these include Campari and nearly the entire product line from small family producers such as Varnelli, Lucano, Strega, Nonino, Nardini and many others, all represented at the show) and other assortments of seemingly random liquor products all caught in an international trade dispute through no fault of their own.

However, let’s not forget that we’re also in the second year of that same tariff percentage enforced in Europe for American whiskey. I was pleased to see that didn’t mean that American brands were shying away from participating in Europe’s biggest bar show. Stephen Gould of Colorado’s Golden Moon distillery, who was pouring the latest release of Gunfighter bourbon, explained that although the tariffs have been a massive blow to European sales, with thousands of $$ of unmoved product essentially renting warehouse space for many brands, presence at a show like BCB means we’re not backing away. “American whiskeys will always have a place on bars overseas, and they’ll be here when this all passes over,” was the resounding, positive message from indie exhibitors, which also included Blinking Owl, Westward Whiskey, Lux Row Distillers, Two James, Koval, Sagamore Spirit, Catoctin Creek (which also presented at a separate booth for Virginia Farm Bureau for the second year), Uncle Nearest and at the Distilled Spirits Council of the US kiosk. Corporate-backed American whiskeys are even feeling the pinch too, but that didn’t stop Michter’s, Buffalo Trace, FEW and others to represent.

Sensory experiences

One of the highlights of the show was the Blend at the Beam Suntory outpost in the lofts adjacent to Külhaus. The entrance was all interactive displays and live action demos that catered specifically to bartenders (for instance Sipsmith Gin featured master distiller Jared Brown could be found demoing how to throw cocktails in between signing copies of the book Sip: 100 Gin Cocktails). Also on site, London’s Lyaness Bar by Ryan Chetiyawardana was recreated in a pop up to serve high end cocktails featuring Beam Suntory products made with either a base of Purple Pineapple mixture (highly aromatized pineapple juice) or Milk Wine (clarified milk kicked up several notches). My table was especially taken with the Penicillin (Laphroaig whisky, milk wine, Courvoisier Cognac, cacao husk and ginger) and the Morning Glory Fizz (Maker’s Mark, purple pineapple, absinthe, turbo citrus, elderflower). Across the way, Singapore’s Tippling Club led a sensory tasting using cocktail-infused gummy bears (take THAT, whisky pods!) that were then added to water to burst into all sorts of tickle-bubbly aromatics (I believe that’s the official scientific term).

As usual it was a ton of fun to stop at the DeKuyper booth. What’s to love about BCB? At single destination you get one stop spirits geek out sessions with distiller Myriam Hendrickx pouring her new Rutte genevers, Joerg Meyer presenting an elegant Dutch Cacao liqueur and Cocktail Maestro Salvatore Calabrese making Stingers out of his Acqua Bianca liqueur, not to mention the chance to taste a new line of bartender collaborative liqueurs from Alex Kratena (Vetiver Gris), Simone Caporale (Chinoto Nero) and Monica Berg (Jasmine Verte).

Other fun tastes around the show included (but were not limited to): Small Beer (a flavorful, yet low ABV recreation of a style popularized in the Medieval era that I hope comes stateside), Luxardo Sangue Morlacco Cherry liqueur, Stork Club (Germany’s first rye!), liqueurs from Casa D’Aristi (Preiss Selections), ABK6 Cognac, Armagnac Castarède, various goodies from Chase Distillery (including a yummy smoked vodka Bloody Mary), The Drifter Spirits booth with Polugar and new expressions from Avuá Cachaça, and Alexandre Gabriel presenting his chamber of secrets with experimental barrel samples of Cognac Ferrand and Plantation Rum (“Here. Come taste some of my 5-legged sheep!). Not to mention, the bizarre, yet entertaining District, which was set up in the former home of the Main Stage, with its own set of boozy, retro, vignettes (some with a Victorian era theme, some opting to present by way of horticultural arrangement) with brands such as The Sexton Irish whiskey, Kraken spiced rum, Botanist Gin and Fernet-Branca.

Well rounded education

One of the best reasons to attend the show is the range of educational content, and one could easily spend the entire session in seminars. Over the past year, educational director Angus Winchester has strived, along with a panel of influential industry insiders, to curate content that informs on many levels covering category trends and history, booze business tips, social responsibility, sustainability, bartending insights and brand activation.

In an era that’s seen quite a share of social controversy in the industry and fervent social media fallout (and this year, the backstage buzz around the show was no exception), it was especially heartening to attend seminars such as the one from Salvatore Calabrese looking back on his career and championing inclusive hospitality, or Stephanie Simbo of Beyond Bars Akademia discussing the hiring of formerly incarcerated individuals who deserve a second chance. I also learned a lot from attending Macallan Brand Ambassador Nicola Riske’s olive oil tasting demo as a way to approach spirits tasting, and ways we should be Cocktail Safe, according to Camper English.

Freddie played us out

Even over three days, it was impossible to squeeze everything in, as one can imagine. If you happened to be near the agave stand in Hall 4 with Don Fulano, Tequila Arette, Mezcal Vago and others by last call on Wednesday (Day 3), then you witnessed the best way the show could be summed up: Tequila Fortaleza’s Guillermo Erickson Sauza led a crowd through a round of “Bohemian Rhapsody”—everyone sharing in a closing time ritual that transcends and bonds bar cultures around the world.

Cheers, BCB! Until next year in the new location!