photo by Amanda Schuster

Despite the tariffs, there’s no substitute for these spirits

In the week leading up to October 18th, some shoppers in the US spent their money as if they were stocking luxe zombie apocalypse shelters. Except the living dead weren’t coming for us in the form of moaning, limping, flesh-eating corpses, but extra costs biting into our wallets. It was the latest fallout from a trade war that just won’t die, one that’s lasted more than 15 years between Europe and the US over government controlled aviation subsidies (Mark Gillespie at Whiskycast explains it rather well here). As the two air spaces fight over what the other sees as equitable control, ad valorem tariffs are placed on various items, mainly the ones innocent citizens consume in order to stay sane. Following a 25% retaliatory tariff placed on things like American whiskey overseas last year, the US responded in October by slapping that same amount on single malt Scotch; any German, Spanish, UK and French still wine under 14.1% that is shipped in containers of 2 litres or less (which is quite a lot of it); northern Irish whiskey (but not those from the Republic); an astounding number of cheese from across Europe including parmesan and stilton; Spanish olive oil; and cashmere sweaters. It also affects Italian spirits, which include liqueurs like limoncello, aperitivo and amaro.

As wildfires burn across the earth, and other parts of it continue to fight real, devastating, perpetual wars, a price increase on these sorts of goods sounds like a livable hardship. Mainly it is.

But consider the people who make and import the goods. Yes, really big companies are affected by the tariffs in all categories, and most likely, they’ll be taking a hit. However, the majority of the producers whose products have been dinged, through no fault of their own, are small, family owned operations who could feel a much bigger impact if they lose overseas sales. And in many instances, the people who supply the agriculture, packaging and other necessary components to make those products are also small houses that rely on the sale of those goods to stay in business. Since American whiskey was caught in the fray last year, sales have plummeted as much as 21% in Europe within a year, as unpurchased stock sits in warehouses and distillers keep hoping for a reprieve.

West Hollywood Iced Tea with Meletti, courtesy Allbright, Los Angeles

How tariffs affect sales (and not by sheer expense)

Adding tariffs to imported Italian liqueur, which could cause some sellers to raise prices on them as much as 15%, doesn’t just mean the cost of our spritz habit will go up a bit and we have to make sacrifices at brunch. Well-read consumer magazines have sounded alarm bells, telling people what to buy instead of the products hit by tariffs. Consumers heed these warnings, but might not even be aware of the consequences, or even understand that making substitutions doesn’t necessarily translate to tangible savings. I’ve noticed that the majority of the recommended products, say, in the whisk(e)y category, cost pretty much in the same ballpark as the Scotch would with price increases.

The inflation will be most felt off premise. A few retailers, such as Astor Wines & Spirits in Manhattan have already posted signs indicating they would be raising prices on items affected by the tariffs.

You might not even notice it’s happening on premise

As of press time, most bars and restaurants I queried say they have not made tariff-based price tweaks (for instance, I recently ordered a tariffed Cotes du Rhône wine for only $10 a glass in an East Village bar), and they also say they have no plans to make substitutions. Venues often make seasonal price adjustments anyway to account for rent, fluctuations in the cost of fresh produce and other supplies, wages, etc.—not to mention typical cost modifications that go with the territory of having a liquor license. So in some instances, consumers will notice higher prices, but tariffed booze is not solely to blame. “Pricing fluctuations happen all the time in this market, usually because of distributors’ programming,” says beverage consultant Jen Gregory. “It gets built into the cocktail program pricing.” She says it’s “tragic” that amari have been hit by tariffs, but it won’t stop her from buying or recommending those liqueurs.

photo by Amanda Schuster

Amor y Amargo are bitters-based cocktail bars with two NYC-based locations—one in the East Village, Manhattan and one that recently opened in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Almost their entire business model relies on the availability of a large selection of Italian liqueurs with bitter flavor profiles. Beverage director Sother Teague says at the time of the tariff increase, the bars “flipped” to their autumn menus. Two of those items are perennial favorites that have been with AyA since the early years of the East Village location, which has operated since 2011—the Sharpie Mustache (recipe can be found here) and the 8 Amaro Sazerac. “These cocktails are the foundation of the menu at both locations. The 8 Amaro Sazerac represents our core concept of using amari in cocktails,” says Teague. Every cocktail at both locations costs the same, and this was true before the tariffs. “The jump in price would affect our profitability, but rather than raise prices, we’ll simply adjust the rest of the menu offerings to have stronger margins.”

Italian liqueurs that are unsubstitutable

after dinner Lucano Anniversario in Matera, photo by Amanda Schuster

Small, family-run distilleries are dotted throughout the Italian landscape, in both cities and small towns. While they fall under the umbrella of the Liqueur category, each has its own production methods and secret family recipes, which gives them unique character that can’t be replicated elsewhere. There’s nothing quite like traveling through the country and visiting them in person, but if you can’t get to places like Matero, Benevento, Veneto, Bologna, Alto Adige or the Amalfi coast, you can sip these low ABV spirits stateside. Many of the distilleries have been operating for more than a century, now with certain modern equipment upgrades, but mainly with the same methods and ingredients they’ve been using since the beginning.

Here are some from distilleries I recently visited in the south, but there are dozens more throughout the rest of the country (more on that later):

Licore Strega

Location: Benevento, Campania

Year began: 1860

What it is: an earthy herbal liqueur with a sweet finish, and a striking goldenrod hue owing to the presence of saffron—one of some 70 ingredients in the mix, making for an ethereal sipping experience.

Use in: The liqueur adds heightened, herbal dimensions to stirred cocktails like Old Fashioneds,. When added to shaken, citrusy drinks like Daiquiris, Sidecars or Margaritas, it’s hard to go back to making them without a bit of Strega for that boost of flavor and color.

Lucano

Location: Pisticci, Basilicata, Puglia (with separate tasting room in the ancient cave city of Matera)

Year began: 1894

What it is: a medium bitter amaro with a finish reminiscent of comforting baking spices

Use in: The spicy back notes make it particularly ideal to add to seasonal winter warmers like nogs, flips and hot cocoa, but it’s also delightful in refreshing spritz variations, and its flavor profile matches beautifully with junipery gins, making it ideal to add to sparkling wine in French 75 riffs.

Amalfi lemons for Pallini, photo by Amanda Schuster

Pallini

Location: Rome/Amalfi

What it is: a lemon liqueur from a recipe over a century old, made from an infusion of peels from organic, Amalfi coast-grown lemons. (Sure beats grocery store lemons left to sit in some Everclear!)

Use in: Add it to Prosecco with some Cynar (see below) for a refreshing variation on the spritz, pour it frozen into a Martini variation or add it to whipped cream for holiday desserts.

Varnelli

Location: Muccia, Marche

Year began: 1868

What it is: two amari—Sibilia (named for the surrounding mountain range and national park Mount Sibillini) and dell’Erborista, plus Moka coffee liqueur, anisetta (l’Anice Secco Speciale), punch and other liqueurs (including a rare, ultra oak-aged peach brandy), all still produced by the Varnelli family.

Martinis at Caffè Meletti, photo by Amanda Schuster

Use in: Sibilia and dell’Erborista are two of the more bracing examples of amari, but there’s simply nothing better than sipping them over a big rock with an orange twist after a meal. Fans like me love them for their inherent walnut and roasted spice flavors, with dell’Erborista carrying an extra bitter bite reminiscent of high quality 100% cocoa (dell’Erborista is also one of the main ingredients in Amor y Amargo’s aforementioned 8 Amaro Sazerac). The Moka also happens to be one of the most authentic-tasting coffee liqueurs out there, and speaking of coffee, try the l’Anice Secco in espresso as they do in the Marche!

Meletti

Location: Ascoli Piceno, Marche

Year began: 1870

What it is: a wide range of exquisite liqueurs, most notably anisetta and amaro

Use in: Add some kick to a Martini with the anisetta, and serve it with fried olives, as they do in Caffè Meletti at home. The amaro gracefully dances the line between bitter and sweet, with a clean, slightly floral finish. All it really needs is a splash of soda, but it’s also terrific in Manhattans and other vermouth-centric recipes since it boosts the fruitiness of wine-based ingredients.

Another take: Bartender Brynn Smith at Allbright in Los Angeles says Meletti is the only amaro she will use in her West Hollywood Iced Tea, which also consists of lemon, honey syrup and brewed Yorkshire Tea served as a swizzle. “I choose Meletti Amaro for this drink because of all the beautiful tasting components in this amaro (rose, lavender, orange, saffron and anise),” Says Smith. “It really is the perfect match for Black Tea. It could not be a more beautiful flavor pairing.”

photo courtesy Amanda Schuster

Other unsubstitutable Italian liqueurs

• Nardini Mandorla: infused with bitter almond and distilled cherry juice, this one-of-a-kind grappa-based liqueur has its imitators, but they can’t hold a candela to the original from the Veneto. It’s especially enjoyable to end a meal, and pairs magnificently a slice of fruit tart, crème brulée, pie or soft cheese.

• Nonino Riserva range: Their Quintessentia amaro is one of my perennial go-tos in cocktails and with a splash of soda, but whenever I see one of the Nonino riserva grappas (the range includes those aged from 12 months to as much as 24 years, made from different grapes and matured in various types of casks), I know it’s going to be worth the treat. The non-riserva range from this Northern Italian distillery is also one of the best ways to explore how different wine grape varietals translate to grappa.

• Amaro Ramazzotti: from Milan comes this aromatic bitter with a delightful finish of orange blossom and spice that’s not too sweet and not too bitter. If I don’t want to commit to opening a whole bottle of sweet vermouth for cocktails at home, I often sub it with Ramazzotti and a splash of liquid from preserved cherries. Speaking of cherries...

• Luxardo Maraschino: Yes, other cherry liqueurs exist. No, none of them taste as good in a Last Word, Martinez, Aviation or Hemingway Daiquiri because this liqueur made from fruit harvested from family marasca cherry orchards in northeastern Italy is what was used to make them in the first place.

• Cynar: This traditional dark liqueur from the Veneto made with artichoke leaves has imitators, and they’re good, but nothing like this OG to warm up a spritz or make a dreamy, brooding, stirred cocktail.

• Amaro Sfumato: from the Cappelletti family in Trentino-Alto-Adige comes this slightly smoky, dark plummy, and wintergreen fresh liqueur made from an infusion of Chinese rhubarb and alpine herbs. It’s an essential ingredient for a smoky Manhattan!

• Amaro Montenegro: I consider this a “gateway amaro” for its tangy, orange marmalade sweetness and versatility in a variety of cocktails. Though it’s been made in Bologna since 1885, this is a liqueur much beloved and lauded by the modern bartending community (Teague has used it in many cocktails on his menus). It’s presented as a bitter liqueur, but I often add it to drinks to add a hint of honey blossom texture to the mix.

photo by Amanda Schuster

The 8 Amaro Sazerac from Amor y Amargo

• .25 oz dell’Erborista

• .25 oz Vecchio del Capo

• .25 oz Averna

• .25 oz Ramazzotti

• .25 oz Aperol

• .25 oz Montenegro

• .25 oz Cynar

• .25 oz Amer Nouvelle

• 1.5 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

• 1 dash orange citrate

• Chartreuse (for rinsing glass)

• Lemon peel for garnish

Stir with plenty of ice to chill and dilute. Strain into a chilled glass that has been rinsed with Chartreuse. Express lemon over drink skin side down and place in glass.