Grapes and Grain REDUX: Crescent City Brewhouse
Contributed by on Apr 09, 2013
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When you think about partaking of the drink in New Orleans many things may come to mind: Hurricanes, Mint Juleps, Sazeracs, or a myriad of frozen cocktails served in obnoxiously shaped plastic containers. Microbrewed beers don’t really come to the front of the discussion.
This is why Crescent City Brewhouse stands out. It claims to be the only microbrewery in the booze heavy French Quarter of New Orleans. Located at 527 Decatur Street, the historic property is included in the original city plans signed in 1722. In 1794, a great fire swept through much of the French Quarter razing 212 buildings including the two-story home at 527 Decatur. Once rebuilt, the home became the residence of elite New Orleans families until 1916 when it was transformed for commercial uses.
Crescent City Brewhouse opened on the site in 1991, bringing not only New Orleans, but also the entire state of Louisiana, its first brewpub. This accomplishment is carried with pride by the entire staff at Crescent City.
THE DEAL
Food and beer have an equal footing at Crescent City; I took a look through the lunch menu just out of curiosity and was astonished by the selection and variety offered.
The noontime entrees were graciously priced and paired with a beer companion. The spicy Louisiana Crab Cake goes well with the Pilsner and the pasta jambalaya should be coupled with the Red Stallion.
Appetizers floated between conventional pub grub and traditional New Orleans fare—fried calamari and hot wings fought for prominence beside seafood andouille gumbo and shrimp remoulade. The menu offers four specialty salads and a list of sandwiches that includes a fried catfish poboy and one sandwich that breaks the rules of even the most insane palates.
Like many establishment in New Orleans, Crescent City offers a variety of ways to eat oysters—baked, fresh, and oyster club. Oyster club? Get this …
“Fresh shucked Louisiana oysters rolled in oats then deep fried,” reads the menu. “Layered with fresh spinach leaves, avocado, radishes, tomatoes, sauerkraut, grilled Canadian bacon, and Herbsaint aioli on fresh wheat bread.” Wow! I didn’t know whether to order one or run for the door.
My New Orleans entourage and I had already eaten lunch, so I decided I wouldn’t be tempted by the oyster club and could stay for another beer or two or three—after all, walking is the preferred mode of transit in the French Quarter, so no need to worry about that designated driver.
THE BEER
There is a seriousness about beer at the Crescent City Brewhouse, a seriousness, which if you may judge to quickly, could be misconstrued as snobbery. Bartenders expect beer drinkers to know their beer. After all, why would anyone not serious about beer wander into a brewhouse in New Orleans when there are so many other drinking choices?
That should also read as a warning. If you are not into craft brews then this is definitely not the place for you. Maybe order a cocktail …
Brewmaster Wolfram Koehler brews pure, chemical free beer according to the Bavarian Purity Law of 1516. Drink with caution, there are no posted alcohol contents for his beers. He offers four house beers: Pilsner, Red Stallion, Black Forest, and Weiss Beer.
“We also brew seasonal varieties throughout the year,” explained manager Ken Fruits. “Except in the (summer) off season.”
The Pilsner is a super hoppy beer with a cloudy, golden color and a floral finish. It is both heavy and light at the same time and will trick and annoy individuals who prefer common domestic beers. The Red Stallion is a Vienna style, copper colored, superbly aromatic beer. It has an easy drinkability but finishes with a tinny aftertaste that would not allow me to order more than one. My favorite Crescent City Beer is the Black Forest. This dark yet surprisingly sweet Munich style beer has a crisp and delicate taste for its deep mahogany color. I especially love the absence of an aftertaste and the startlingly pleasant aroma. The Weiss beer is exactly what it is named after, an unfiltered wheat beer that is an awesome addition to any afternoon whether in New Orleans or anywhere else warm and sunny. Crescent City’s weiss is smooth and refreshing and on par with any other weiss I have tasted.
Overall, it’s safe to say that I liked the beers at Crescent City more than the rest of my entourage. That’s not to say they aren’t into quality beers, Crescent City beers just need a little imagination and interpretation. If that sounds snobby, refer back to the comment that started this segment.
There is no shortage of drink in the French Quarter. We found a place serious about beer in a city that is serious about drinking. I’ll stop in if I pass that way again. And maybe next time I’ll try that Oyster Club … I think that sandwich would make an interesting story in itself. Cheers!