Floral fruity esters with bushel baskets of Granny Smith apples – reminiscent of Wiser’s 18. Sweet butterscotch with piney notes and hints of Canada Balsam. Crisp, clean wood, like faded barn boards, Virginia pipe tobacco fresh from the humidor. Vanilla, ripe dark fruits, the silkiness of corn and lively peppery spices in a finish that just goes on and on. The glories of masterfully made spirit matured slowly. ★★★★★

Last Barrels Canadian Whisky fromJP Wiser 2016

They really were his Last Barrels. In May, 2001, Jim Stanski left his position as a distiller to move into management at Hiram Walker distillery where he is now vice-president of production. His final distillation before moving up? Something unusual among Canadian whiskies.

Unlike most Canadians, in which the grains are distilled individually first, then blended later, he blended the grains before mashing them. Using 80% corn grist, 11% rye and 9% barley malt he made a bourbon-style mash. This mix of grains was chosen to match one used by J.P. Wiser himself in a recipe dating from 1869.

And that’s not the only thing Stanski did differently. Sour mash too, has fallen out of favour in Canada, having been replaced by rigourous sanitation. But he wanted a sour ferment. So, he relied on the kind of ingenuity only someone with in-depth knowledge of the ins and outs of making whisky would think of.

He bought a carton of milk and set it out on a counter in the lab to go sour then used it to sour the mash. People working in the lab at Hiram Walker today, still chuckle when reminded about Stanski’s sour milk. And they are quick to acknowledge the contributions to the final flavour made by the milk-souring bacteria, Lactobacillus sp. The result, after 14 years maturation in used bourbon barrels is simply stunning.

J.P. Wiser’s Last Barrels is the most interesting new whisky to come along in ages. With only 132 barrels of spirit in that final run, the result is a very limited release. When LCBO sent word they were looking for an exclusive Canadian whisky for Father’s Day (kudos to LCBO, by the way), current master blender, Don Livermore remembered Stanski’s “science experiment.”

Tasters all round agreed it was a stellar whisky and LCBO bought all 2,000 cases. So, ladies and gentlemen, we’re keeping this one at home. If you don’t live in Ontario, start your engines.

J.P. Wiser’s Last Barrels is just beginning to trickle into stores now. Priced at $65, this once-in-a-lifetime whisky is not to be missed and it will not last long.

Very Highly Recommended. ★★★★★