Kindred Spirits in Scotland: Day 2
Contributed by on May 28, 2015
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Being 8 hours ahead of Washington time really screws with your internal clock... After a long night out on the town, it's time to do some sight-seeing and when your waking up from a self-induced hangover at 9am, realizing it's 5pm back home, and your still recovering from jet lag, touring the town can be rough. Luckily, the sun's out and we've had a delicious traditional Scottish breakfast of sausage, fried eggs, haggis and toast and we're ready to do some sightseeing!
Edinburgh is a beautiful mix of old and new with aged limestone and gothic buildings amidst a picturesque rolling hills backdrop. Cobblestone roads line the main small back roads and town square that merge into modern streets and buildings full of shopping malls, touristy knick knack shops, plenty of whisky shops, pubs and eateries. Just a few blocks behind our hotel lies Edinburgh Castle which is an awe-inspiring site with see's thousands of tourists each year.
Besides winning the competition and taking in a storied culture; I had another agenda to complete. Find a bottle of Amer Picon! As we all (well most of us whom know this stuff) you can't purchase this famous and traditional French amaro here in the states. Outside of the best craft bars, there is virtually nowhere to get a taste of this classic amaro that is vital to so many famous tipple's such as the Brooklyn and Picon Punch. So, my journey begins today. Josh was kind enough to join me on my noble quest as it also gave us an opportunity to explore this vibrant and beautiful city.
With a little more than 8 hours of free time to explore, we probably used a good four hours searching for this elusive bottle! No shit. We couldn't find one liquor shop or department store that carried it. Most didn't even know what it was! Apparently, Scots don't drink much amari (guess that makes sense...) and you don't see too many in the shops, at least the ones we could find. Alas, with daylight burning it was time to return to the hotel and get ready for another bar tour and then dinner at the famous Bon Vivant. My quest, as it would seem, would yield as good as results and that of the quest for the Holy Grail.
Our first stop of the evening would take us to one of Scotland's best craft bars, The Devil's Advocate, located in a tiny back alley about 5 blocks from our home base. The venue was small and quaint with a nice mix of old and new. We were some of the first to arrive, and had the entire front bar saved for us, all about 20 or so colorful characters looking to quench our ravenous thirsts. The backbar was filled with precious liquid ambrosia of all things spirituous. Scotch was no exception. The barmen were dressed in a pleasantly cheeky mix of the required vest and ties, but adorned these great custom leather aprons that gave them an almost industrial pedestrian look about them.
We began with a custom Monkey Shoulder cocktail made just for us, married with Luxardo maraschino, Green Chartreuse and some fresh lemon. Right up my alley, and befitting since we're technically drinking in an alley. The flavor was bright and complex, with hints of pear, oak, funky maraschino and a strong herbal back note balanced by the natural sugars in the liqueurs and acidity of the lemon. Simply masterful. Unfortunately, my note pad was left on the plane, so I don't have the exact proportions for recipes featured for the next few posts, but I've given my best approximations.
Monkey Business
1 1/2 oz Monkey Shoulder Scotch
1/2 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
1/4 oz Yellow Chartreuse
3/4 oz Fresh Lemon Juice
Combine ingredients over ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. No garnish necessary.
Then, it struck my attention. A beautiful black bottle adorned with orange characters, sitting on the back bar. Amer Picon! Naturally, I got giddy like a school girl and inquired just how the hell do I get one?! Fate would have it that our paths would cross soon. The Bon Vivant's sister shop apparently keeps a decent stock on hand, and we would be going there soon.
My new mates were curious as to what I was making all the fuss about. I quickly gave them some cliff notes not only on the amaro but also of my failed quest of the day. Before I could finish my story, the bartender started pouring tastes for us. The nose quaffed with aromas of candied orange, flat cola, sarsaparilla, and herbs. The taste was moderately sweet, with bitter orange, mild vanilla, herbs and roots with a silky mouthfeel. Delicious. Honestly, very close to CioCiaro, which has been labeled a solid substitute for quite sometime. This night, is getting better by the minute.
Our next stop took us to a breathtaking bar that boasted a high venetian ceiling (whose name is lost to me now I'm afraid), much like one you would expect to see at Cesar's Palace in Vegas. This was a more upscale watering hole that screamed for us to order a Martini or Manhattan. The barkeep were dressed in traditional white dress shirt, black vests and ties. The bar was large and had many typical offerings for all manner of thirsty travelers, whether you like high-end whisk(e)y or flavored vodka. Though, don't judge too quickly as they made perhaps the best Old Fashioned I've ever had. Their technique was slow and methodical, stirring about 2/3 of an ounce of whiskey with equal parts ice, for what seemed about 10 seconds before adding the next 2/3's or so. Seriously though, it diluted the cocktail perfectly and no fruit salad to ruin the booze. Just a swath of fresh orange peel and a cocktail napkin. Perfect.
Finally, it was time to head over to The Bon Vivant, which just recently won best restaurant at Tales of the Cocktail last year, and owned by Stuart McCluskey, who also happens to own The Devil's Advocate as well. This was a beautiful French bistro style establishment with a great focus on both food and cocktails. We were welcomed with warm smiles and another fabulous custom cocktail featuring Glenfiddich 12 Year, mixed with a bit of pear, and charcoal powder of all things, courtesy of master bartender Will Cox. Another home run and the first time I've ever had charcoal powder in a cocktail before. Apparently it's only a small amount and more for color than flavor but interesting none the less.
Black Stag
1 1/2 oz Glenfiddich 12 Year Single Malt Scotch
1/2 oz Fino Sherry
1/3 oz Pear Syrup*
dash of Bamboo Activated Charcoal Powder
Combine ingredients over ice. Shake and strain into a chilled cocktail glass, fine strain through cheese cloth. Garnish and enjoy.
Pear Syrup*
1/2 cup Pear Puree
3/4 cup Honey
1/2 cup Water
1/2 Tbs Fresh Ginger
Combine ingredients in a medium sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Stir to combine and remove from heat. Allow to steep and cool for 2 hours. Fine strain, bottle and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
After I imbibed this wonder tipple, it was finally time to head over to the Bon Vivant Companion, a craft spirits and all things bar related store attached to the restaurant. I barely gave the clerk a chance to speak as I immediately inquired about the Amer Picon. He smiled and walked around the corner of the store and brought out a bottle. "You're in luck" he said, "it's the last one I have." Could this be any more futuritous? Mission accomplished, time to head back to dinner, with ample glee and a little something to show off back home.
It was another wonderful evening of food and drink; conversation and anticipation as our main competition was only 2 more days away. Tomorrow we would be leaving the breathtaking city and heading towards the small town of Dufftown to tour the Balvenie and Glenfiddich Distilleries, where our main event would be held. But more importantly, I've got a bottle of Amer Picon!