It’s been about a year since I covered Four Roses bourbon and now time to hone in on Jim Rutledge, their real Master Distiller. I think I know about enough about Jim by listening to interviews, speaking to him a few of times and drinking his concoctions to take a shot. I’ve had the honor of meeting some of the great “Authentic” (and currently in-charge of a real operating still) Master Distillers. The sadness of not getting to some of the greats before they have been called to the real Angels Share has been regretful but I feel very fortunate with Jim. Rutledge is a bit puzzling. I had a chance to chat with Parker Beam at Whiskyfest. A great treat. Although his words don’t come out of his mouth as they once did, I still listened in awe and marveled at how happy he was talking Whiskey. I love the Parker Heritage Golden Anniversary (and story) which has the contents of at least one barrel from each decade from the 1960’s-2010’s in it. The 1960’s is basically around 50 years old. The scoop was the barrel held about two bottles as he and Craig remembered what came out. I’m so happy to have been able to spend a few minutes with him. Craig is very quiet and reserved. I don’t think his elementary teacher ever had to raise her voice at him. But Jim Rutledge is such a different animal. He’s a serious guy, no bull. A dry whit and can’t say he will ever win a smile contest. At the same time, a very nice guy and I doubt anyone’s more respected in Whiskygeekdom.

He started off working for Seagrams in the 1960’s and eventually got back to Kentucky in the Lawrenceburg Distillery (his true love,dream job) in the mid-1990’s as the Master Distiller. This is still 5-10 years before Seagrams got sold and when it does he senses doom. Then a funny thing happened, the Japanese company that still owns the brand today, Kirin, buys it and is convinced by Jim to return the good stuff (not seen in the US since the 1950’s) to the shores that made it. It’s a bit ironic that overseas (and especially Japan) Four Roses was the best of the best where back here it was a laughing stock of rotgut wino booze. I can remember when I saw Four Roses before Rutledge. It was always an empty pint bottle in a gutter, at a Packy in the depressed parts of town, what I expected seeing in the park or under a bridge being drank in a paper bag (an invisible paper bag for YOU people that like to pick apart a good story). Even Clyde and the dogs wouldn’t drink it. Rutledge eventually convinces the powers that be to bring the good stuff back in 2002. In 2008 the Mariage is released for a couple years to be rebranded as the annual LTD. special release small batch.
I’ve covered this before but I’m the boss of the blog so Ill cover it again. Four Roses has five of their own Yeast Strains. Then two Mashbills, a high rye (35%) and low rye (20%) recipe for 10 total “types going into the barrels. Even the low rye is higher than many of their competitors. Jim loves OBSK. Essentially a high rye spice monster. Last years 2012 Small Batch Limited Edition uses an 17 year OBSV, 12 year OBSK and 11 year OBSV. It won loads of awards and bests of and already cult status reselling for 3x the original sale price. This years 2013 Small batch is 13 Year OBSK, 13 Year OESK, and 18 year OBSV. B is High rye, K is a slightly spicy yeast, V is a fruity Yeast. So the mix are fruity/spicy. I’ll say this although it’s not useful at this point—Buy some 2013 Small Batch, pay what you need to and get several bottles. If your that concerned about needing the dough for the kids college fund auction it in 10 years for 5x the inflated price you’ll pay unless you get extraordinarily lucky.

Periodically the warehouse magicians will pick some barrels as candidates for the Gift Shop bottling’s which Jim will hand pick the “finalist” Barrel/s for. Four Roses uses single story Warehouses and Jim isn’t a fan of going over 12 years. Very recent Gift Shop barrels are in the 12-14 range. But the White Whale 17 Year OBSV Barrel gift shop barrels of 2012 are legendary among the geekiest of Whisky Geeks. Its obscure and rare enough that it’s a fools errand to find as there aren’t hardly any as they got drank as their fame developed. Yes, I grabbed a bunch and have two left unopened. But here is the rest of the story.

In the Winter 2013 I spoke to Jim about how great the 2012 was and he told me to get ready for the better 2013. He’s not the type to make the comment that the up coming 2013 was the best he’s ever had unless it was true. I tried to keep quiet but only crap has a chance to quietly make its way to a shelf these days. In this ultra fast moving “hobby” people are now lined up at stores the night before 1st sale of potential or real greatness. I’ve written a bit on the 2013 in code and in name after release and he was right. The Whiskey fans saw this one coming and it took on a Pappy-esk hue in the hunt. 8000 bottles in the USA really isn’t much. Ive heard some states got none or 24 bottles. So I got to talking to Jim and here is the thing that hasn’t really gotten out. The OBSV 17 year Gift Shop bottling, the OBSV 17 used in the 2012, the OBSV 18 used in the 2013 are the same batch being aged in the same area in the rickhouse. He said its a common link that has made these so special. Its very unlikely that when your at a great Whiskey bar you’ll see the 17 Year Gift shop OBSV but if you do, have it. The bottle will be the square type that the Single barrel (which it is) comes in and will say it was Hand Selected by Jim Ruttlidge for Four Roses. Who knows if there will be a 19 year OBSV.

I cant think of any other Master Distiller that carries more weight and clout than Jim. The sales increase and respect Four Roses have gained each year is staggering. They recently had to tell Bulleitt to take a hike as they could no longer supply them. Bulleitt used to get the stuff from Seagrams since 1997 but then Seagrams sold out to LDI which became MGPI (Bulleitt Rye) and Four Roses for the Bourbon. Jim runs a tight ship and rumor and what he has said in interviews is he’s threatened to walk if he cant make the best. He tells a story of the Marketers in his firm saying how much they can sell of an inferior potential Whiskey. He told them that they are right that they will sell a bunch but only once and customers wouldn’t buy it again. Very passionate guy that takes it real serious. Rarely is anyone else allowed to pick private barrels with customers if Jim is in Kentucky. Go to Buffalo Trace, Heaven Hill and the others and try doing a private selection with the Master Distiller, it’s not easy if even possible. Many Master Distillers have a largely ceremonial job and more of a “World Brand Ambassador”. Jim somehow pulls off being in three places at the same time. Id like to have him tattooed on his hand in his sleep to see if the mark is there next time I see him. He must have a double. From my view he’s an oddity in so many ways. He will talk. Give you his opinion, be fairly upfront in his opinions and plans. You can tell he’s proud and owns the job and what it is. These are cumulative traits I can’t say any of his peers have. If Four Roses isn’t the last, they are one of the last majors to use non-GMO corn. It’s only one of the many internal things and standards continued under his watch. Jim’s one of the reasons I take offense to some idiot using the title of Master Distiller that doesn’t make a thing and specializes in lies and manipulation not distillation and aging. This person is the Dr. Jekyll of Jim’s Mr. Hyde. The Jekyll jackals of whiskey have no self respect and essentially are sellouts. Speak to Jim for an hour than see one of the frauds pretend and maybe you’ll understand. I know of no other brand that has regained its domestic reputation and thrived more than from one person like Rutledge, the Batman of great Bourbon. When you sip some Four Roses he truly is responsible for it and no other major brand can point to one person and say the same thing, none.
One last thing:
I’ve said before and will say again that the Four Roses Small Batch regular Edition is about $30 and great stuff. Better than most other bottles in the $30-$60 category. Increasingly hard to find so try it if you haven’t and hoard some if you can, while you can. I’m still predicting allocation/worsening shortage of this stuff by the end of 2014.