Every mezcal tells a story, and, man, Mezcal Tosba has a great one. You can listen to a pretty comprehensive version of it here on NPR, but the short take is that cousins Edgar Gonzalez-Ramirez and Elisandro Gonzalez-Molina started planting agave about a decade ago in their tiny moutain village of San Cristóbal Lachirioag, Oaxaca, in the hopes of turning it into a full-fledged mezcal business that would employ people from their impoverished community. And, 10 or so years later, they did just that. But here’s the kicker: Most mezcals you find in the US are the result of four or five generations of families perfecting the craft. Gonzalez-Ramirez and Gonzalez-Molina are first-generation mezcaleros, armed with a college education and a real Silicon Valley-style start-up mentality (which makes sense since they both lived and worked in San Jose, California, while they were hatching the plans Mezcal Tosba).

Long story short: They do things their own way, and their own way is pretty damn amazing, as, with little education other than trial and error on their homegrown palenque, these cousins have knocked it out of the park with their small selection of ridiculously good mezcals. It’s unbelievably hard to find their spirits on the shelf in the US, so if you can, snap them up.

For my story for Liquor.com on the Best Mezcals for $40 or Less, I reviewed their 42% espadín which, at the time, was still listed at $33.99 via an out-of-stock listing on the K&L Wines website, but I can’t guarantee that this most recent lot to cross the border is still under $40. Regardless, if you pay more than that, you are still getting an excellent mezcal, no matter the price. It’s got a nose of toasted nut, cinnamon, and cooked agave, but it’s gorgeously round and complex on the palate, with a generous sweetness that’s balanced by some lightly acidic citrus and a little smoke and ash. Elisandro told me that he also has a yet-to-be-released 50% espadín expression, which I cannot wait to get my hands on. For now, I will happily continue to enjoy this 42%. Absolutely delicious.